| Coming to my island for a vacation? There are three | | | | interesting snorkeling spot on the island. Walk along |
| things I always recommend the first-time visitor do. | | | | the sea cliffs and coves about 15-20 minutes north, |
| First, go on an air tour. Secondly-go to a luau. Finally, I | | | | to the Queen Lilioukalani Children's Camp at Pawai |
| advise people of every age to get in the water and | | | | Bay. Remember, non-Hawaiians are restricted to |
| go snorkeling. The "one-one-one, experiencing the | | | | travel along the tidal zone and only the edge of the |
| world through the fishes' eyes" magic of swimming in | | | | shoreline...to venture even a few feet inland is |
| those bath-warm lagoons surrounded by clouds of | | | | trespassing. |
| tropical fish is an amazing, restful and restorative | | | | Pawai Bay hosts a choice sandy beach with a small |
| pursuit-you will find your mind going back to that | | | | channel leading to open ocean and exciting snorkeling. |
| experience over and over through the years much | | | | Many charter snorkel tours bring clients here, but you |
| more so than many of your other travel experiences. | | | | can visit free. Submerged caverns, arches and caves |
| Part I of this series discussed Snorkeling Gear; Part II | | | | are filled with fish and coral and pristine water. From |
| of this series will discussed Snorkeling Technique and | | | | the shore, this is not a snorkel adventure for rank |
| Part III covered Snorkeling Etiquette; Part IV of the | | | | beginners. |
| series discussed Snorkel Safety and Part V covered | | | | Swim through the sandy bay to the channel and out |
| Big Island Snorkel Spots. | | | | to the cliffs. Be wary of surginess and don't go in |
| Of all the Hawaiian Islands, because it is the | | | | when the surf is big. Once in the larger bay, look |
| youngest, the Big Island has the fewest and smallest | | | | back toward shore where numerous small channels |
| beaches...this leads to crowding during the height of | | | | lead shoreward but dead-end in cliffs; your passage |
| tourist season at some beaches. Because Hawaii is | | | | back is the only channel through which you can see |
| still rural, there are still some wilderness (hike-to-only) | | | | sand at the end. |
| beaches; a few of them are among the best on the | | | | The bay itself lies on Queen Lilioukalani Trust lands. |
| island. | | | | Non-native Hawai'ians are not allowed on the land or |
| Many wild beaches may be camped upon but you | | | | to use the facilities. State beach access laws allow |
| must apply for a permit from the appropriate agency. | | | | you to visit as long as you stay immediately along |
| Overnight camping on Hawaii beaches is simplified | | | | the shoreline; the beach is patrolled 24/7. |
| because of the mild climate-usually I take a few | | | | Captain Cook Monument (The trail leaves the |
| quarts of water, a couple sandwiches, my camera, | | | | Napo'opo'o Road right at telephone pole number 4, |
| dry clothes for post-snorkeling comfort, a fleece | | | | just 500 feet below where it drops off Highway 11; |
| blanket and rice mat to sleep on (a beach towel will | | | | parking is tight, but safe): This hike is a fine walk |
| suffice) and a small tarp on the off-chance it rains. | | | | through tall grass, open lava fields and dryland forest, |
| The key here is that if the weather turns truly ugly, | | | | opening onto one of the most pristine ocean beaches |
| you are rarely more than an hour from your car. You | | | | in the world. Hiking down to the Monument is great |
| may wish to bring a few extra quarts of water to | | | | fun-the return is hot, thirsty and strenuous but |
| rinse the salt off after swimming-it's difficult to sleep | | | | rewards with panoramic views of the coast. The |
| comfortably with salty skin. | | | | 2.5-mile hike takes about an hour down, somewhat |
| Two things to bear in mind-although is sometimes | | | | more to return. The trail runs straight down the left |
| doesn't seem it, Hawaii DOES have tides...camp well | | | | side of a rock wall toward the sea. As the pitch |
| back of the beach area. Secondly, beach fires are | | | | straightens out, keep to the left at the fork and |
| not only illegal, they are hugely dangerous on most | | | | proceed to the beach through the abandoned village. |
| beaches on the west side. | | | | You strike shore several hundred feet northwest of |
| Ke-awa-iki Beach (park off Highway 19 just north of | | | | the monument-remember to bear right at the trail |
| Mile 79; walk along gravel road towards the ocean to | | | | junction when returning, or you face a long and |
| a fence and foot trail; about 15 minutes to beach): A | | | | unpleasant time wandering the a'a fields. |
| little walking over a lava road and a'a rewards you | | | | Snorkeling at the monument is wild and scenic, from |
| with a beautiful beach many locals don't know about. | | | | shallow tidepools north of the wharf to the steep |
| This tiny black-sand beach has good snorkeling on the | | | | drop-off under the cliffs. There is a concrete marker |
| south side, where there is still a pocket of white | | | | in the tidal zone denoting the exact spot Cook fell |
| sand. This unique black and white sand beach was | | | | somewhat north of the actual monument. |
| created after the 1859 eruption of Mauna Kea, when | | | | Honomalino Beach (turn off Highway 11 just south of |
| lava reached the north end of the beach, where the | | | | mile marker 89, drive through Miloli'i; start hiking |
| black sand is today. Further south along the beach, | | | | between the county park and a yellow church. Keep |
| the recent black sand has not had time to thoroughly | | | | along the right at forks in the trail, in and out of the |
| mix with the pre-existing white sand. | | | | surf line, to avoid private property): A true gem of |
| If one continues south there are numerous tide pools | | | | West Hawai'i and rarely crowded, Honomalino Bay is |
| to explore. | | | | reached by a 20 minute hike from the south end of |
| Hiking north, one comes to Pueo Bay, where | | | | Miloli'i Beach County Park. Snorkeling is very |
| freshwater springs make the snorkeling interesting | | | | interesting on the north side in the rocks, when the |
| but weird, with large temperature and salinity | | | | surf is low. The water, though very clear, is |
| gradients. If one takes the trail heading inland | | | | sometimes quite cold due to spring discharge in the |
| towards a conspicuous growth of hala trees, one | | | | sand on the beach. |
| comes to a pair of lovely golden pools. A golden | | | | Mahana Green Sand Beach (Turn off Highway 11 to |
| algae gives these pools their distinctive color, but be | | | | South Point, follow signs to Mahana Boat Launch. Park |
| sure not to damage the growth by walking on it. | | | | just above the boat ramp for the 2 1/4 mile hike to |
| Finish the trek by hiking back across the | | | | the Green Sand Beach): Absolutely unique to Hawai'i, |
| a'a...approximately 4 miles, round trip. | | | | beautiful and strange, are the green sand. The green |
| Makalawena Beach (turn off Highway 19 south of | | | | sand beach at South Point is the best known, largest |
| Mile 90 at Kekahakai State Park; at the end of the | | | | and most accessible of these. The sand grains here |
| road, take obvious trail north over lava field; the trail | | | | are olivine crystals, washed out of a cinder cone that |
| traverses rough lava and keawe breaks, so shoes | | | | has been partially breached by the sea. |
| are required): Makalawena is the finest swimming and | | | | When you reach the end of the trail, you are a |
| snorkeling beach on the island and the most beautiful | | | | hundred or so feet above the beach on the rim of |
| beach setting. This beach sports a series of coves, | | | | the remnant of the crater. At the start, there is a |
| refreshing shade, big sand dunes and a nice | | | | tricky spot edging over a 3-foot ledge, but below this |
| freshwater pond to rinse-off in. A great backpacking | | | | the trail is wide and clear One can also easily scramble |
| getaway, do not forget your camera; this hike will be | | | | down middle of the cone, but this can be slippery. |
| a major highlight of your trip to the Big Island. | | | | Although tricky to spot on the way down, from the |
| The land fronting the beach is owned by Bishop | | | | beach looking up the way back to the crater rim is |
| Estate and is slated to be turned into a development | | | | easy to follow. |
| of condos and resorts; vigilance and protest on the | | | | The beach lies in the interior of the cone, and the |
| part of locals and visitors is the only way we can | | | | protected cove makes for a wonderful swimming |
| keep this last, wild Kona beach wild. | | | | snorkeling spot but be wary of currents. Do not go |
| Pawai Bay (in Kailua Kona, drive to the end of the | | | | out far, nor in at all in high surf or strong winds. The |
| Old Airport County Beach Park; hike along the ocean | | | | bizarre color of the water shrieks for color |
| to the first, obvious, sandy bay): Spectacular, | | | | photographs, particularly underwater photographs |
| secluded, secret; Pawai Bay is perhaps the most | | | | taken while snorkeling. |